FEBRUARY

31.9° F. ‑‑ 52.9° F. ‑‑ 2.12" ppt.  

Broccoli, early variety ‑ all month and to 3/15. 5‑7 weeks to transplant and 60‑80 days from transplanting to harvest. More free of problems and flavorful when sown mid­summer for fall and winter harvest.

Cabbage, early variety ‑ to 2/15. See January notes.

Cabbage, Chinese ‑ all month. The non‑heading varieties are: Bok Choy, Pak‑Choi, Celery Mustard, Chinese Mustard. Difficult to transplant except when very young; use peat pots. Can be re‑planted in August for fall garden.

Cauliflower, early variety ‑ 2/10 to 3/15. Grow at cooler temperature after germination to transplanting time in 4‑5 weeks. Moderate, even temperatures are necessary to produce successful heads. A less risky period for growing is late summer to harvest in fall and over winter.

Endive, Escarole ‑ 2/15 to 2/30. Transplant in 6 weeks.

Leeks ‑ through March. Sow in very loose planting medium for ease of separating at transplanting time in 10‑12 weeks.

Onions, bulbing ‑ all month for winter storage bulbs. Eight weeks to transplanting. 

DIRECT SEED: 

Beans, fava (English broad bean) ‑ all month and through March This bean requires only 60° F. for germinating. Best results will be those planted in Feb. as they require 70 days of cool weather to produce large bushes with well‑filled pods. If using a nitrogen‑fixing inoculant, purchase one for vetch. May be re‑planted in fall. People of Mediterranean origin can, possibly, be allergic to fava beans and should try them with caution.

Corn salad (also known as mache, lamb's lettuce, feldsalat) ‑ 2/15 through March at one week intervals. Ready in 6‑8 weeks. Can be re‑sown in late summer to over‑winter for early spring use.

Garden cress ‑ 2/15 throuqh March at one week intervals. Matures in 25‑45 days.

Mustard greens, turnip greens ‑ late Feb. through March..

Onions, Sweet Spanish ‑ all month through March. Peas ‑ all month and to 4/15. Radishes ‑ all month and to 4/15. Replant in September.

Rocket ‑ (Arugula) ‑ all month and through March. Successive sowings. Re‑sow in August and September.

Spinach ‑ all month and through March. When the central stem starts to elongate, the plant is starting to bolt; harvest the whole plant. May be re‑sown for fall harvest. 

PREPARING AN ASPARAGUS BED

       Asparagus needs deep soil with good drainage and aeration with medium high fertility. 
       Make a trench 10‑12" deep and 12" wide, with furrows 4‑5' apart. Incorporate a lot of
     aged manure, compost, leaf mold or combination of these, bring it up to 6‑8" of the top.
       Make a slight mound in the trench and spread the roots of 1‑year old crowns over this.
       Cover with 2" of soil. Fill the trench as plants grow, being careful not to cover foliage. 

  . TRANSPLANT: 

Asparagus roots ‑ February and March. See above for preparing planting bed. The varieties California 500, Jersey Giant and UC 157 are superior to the Washington strains for our climate.

Herbs, perennial ‑ all month. chives, lovage, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, tarragon, thyme.

Horseradish ‑ all month. A large, invasive perennial; will need to be controlled. Lettuce, head ‑ 2/15 to 3/15.

Onion sets, plants ‑ as soon as available and the soil is ready. 

Strawberries ‑ all month and through March. See Preparing a Strawberry Bed, pg. 12. 

THIS MONTH IN THE GARDEN: 

Plant bare root fruit trees and nut trees if not done in January.
Prune established fruit trees and grape vines. Grape vines may be saved for propagation.  

Remove mulch from established asparagus bed and feed with 3‑1/2 Ibs of 5‑10‑10 (or equivalent) fertilizer per 100 sq. ft. Rake into the top 1‑2", taking care not to damage crowns. Repeat with half this amount in late July or early August. 

Fertilize over‑wintering vegetables this month and in March with high nitrogen fertilizer. 

Fertilize rhubarb with a manure mulch or a complete fertilizer. 

*To control blister mites, scale, scab and mildew on pears and apples, use the following schedule:

•      Early spring (just before buds open) ‑ for control of blister mites, scale, scab

•       Pre‑pink (bloom buds tightly closed) ‑ for control of scab

•      Pink (just before blossoms open) ‑ for control of scab, mildew

•      Petal fall ‑ for control of scab, mildew 

If necessary, fertilize fruit trees this month or in March. 

*Recommended spray ingredients are listed in the Spray Schedule for Home Orchards, available from Southern Oregon Research and Extension Center. 

FERTILIZING TREES IN THE HOME ORCHARD 

Generally, fruit trees in the home orchard do not require an application of fertilizer if they are well pruned every year and receive sufficient water in the summer. This is especially true if they are growing in or near a fertilized lawn or flower bed. Withholding fertilizer and careful annual pruning is one way of keeping a fruit tree from becoming too big for its' space. Peach trees are an exception to this general rule, they usually need some fertilizer every year. Apple and pear trees should make about 6‑12" of new growth on the ends of fruit‑bearing limbs. The longer shoots in the treetop don't count. Evenly distribute the fertilizer around the drip line of the tree and allow rain or irrigation water to carry it into the soil. 

AMOUNT TO FERTILIZE
1/2 lb. of actual Nitrogen for small trees
   1 "     "   “     medium size  trees
   2 “     “   “"                Large size trees 

ONE LB. OF NITROGEN CAN BE SUPPLIED BY‑ 

5 Ibs. Ammonium Sulfate (21% N) or 2‑1/2 Ibs. Urea (45% N.) or 3 Ibs. Ammonium Nitrate (33% N.) or 6 Ibs. Calcium Nitrate (16% N.).   Occasionally, fruit trees need boron. Apply about 1/10th of a lb. of actual boron per tree. This would require approximately 1 lb. of borax (the type you can purchase at grocery stores). Do not apply boron to young, non‑bearing trees.  Wood ashes can be used to add potassium.  

PREPARING A STRAWBERRY BED 

Preparing the bed is best done the fall prior to planting. Select a site in full sun; avoiding low‑lying areas and where members of the Solanaceae family (see pg. 62) have been growing for the past three years. If you have heavy soil with poor drainage, you can improve it by adding organic matter and planting on ridges or raised beds. 

Organic matter such as compost, leaves, chopped hay or straw, peat moss or sawdust or manure (at the rate of 2‑3 bushels per 100 sq. ft.) may be used. If using non­decomposed (fresh) matter, add ammonium nitrate (33%) to aid decomposition. Before planting, apply 1 lb. of 10‑20‑20 (or equivalent) per 100 sq. ft. and till into the top 6". 

Keep plants cool and moist prior to planting and, if possible, plant on a cool, cloudy day. EC 768, Growing Strawberries at Home is available at Southern Oregon Research and Extension Center.   

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